New Delhi: Hell hath no fury like a
woman scorned. And if it's Mother Nature, be sure that her wrath is
as twisted as the pathos of her loveliness.
In Uttarakhand, even as rescue
operations continue, 20,000 people still await evacuation and
unofficial sources tout the death toll to be as high as 10,000; the
effects of nature's furor are still being felt in Uttarakhand,
Himachal Pradesh and adjoining areas – by those who lost their dear
ones, by those still awaiting relief and by those who survived it.
I am one from the last lot.
When I along with a couple of friends
reached Kaza, a small town in Himachal Pradesh's Spiti Valley on June
15th, well on our last leg of a week-long drive through the state's
picturesque landscape, we didn't anticipate any trouble. Kaza was our
second last stop from where we were headed to Sangla valley and then
to Shimla – from where we would head back to Delhi.
When we set off for Sangla in the
afternoon it seemed like fair weather, but after a 30 minute drive
through the mountains it began to rain and the sleepy village of Leo
still about 50 kms away seemed like a good spot to stop for a hot cup
of tea. However, when we stopped at Leo – a village which had just
one stall selling tea – it was unusually crowed with tourist
vehicles. Six of them excluding ours. And just as we were looking
forward to some piping hot beverage, two drivers from the waiting
tourist cars approached us looking concerned and began having an
animated conversation with our driver, Ravi. In a few minutes Ravi
was telling us that the drivers had warned him against going ahead as
there were landslides occurring which could be fatal.
Now, I am a lifelong Bombay girl at
heart and anyone who has lived in Mumbai long enough knows that come
what may – hell or high water (in the city's case, incessant rains)
we Mumbaikars chug along, walk to our workplace, stay in office if
the need be – yet work. “What could happen after all – it was
only a spell of rain,” I thought. And that wasn't going to deter
our plans.
Encouraged by my friends – also born
and raised in Mumbai – we decided not to pay heed to the drivers'
warnings. Forgetting our desire for a hot cuppa, we sped ahead. As we
approached our first landslide zone 15 mins after, we asked Ravi what
the strategy to pass through the landslide would be. But by then it
was too late, we were in the midst of it.
Our driver Ravi deftly manouvered the
Tata Sumo transporting us, over the huge boulders strewn all over the
narrow road, even as he pedalled the accelerator with all his might,
dodging the falling earth. My friends and I shut our eyes for a few
moments, even as the friend sitting next to me let out a loud scream
in fear.
I was pissed annoyed at my friend even
as we crossed hurdle one. “DO NOT indulge in backseat driving,” I
told her, “You are distracting Ravi. Even if we aren't going to
die, we will die because of your shreiks!”. I had barely finished
admonishing her when we approached our second landslide.
Before i knew it, I was holding the
driver's seat and yelling, “Drive slow!”
I did exactly the same thing my friend
had done a few minutes earlier, even as our Tata Sumo swiveled and
skid as it hopped like a bunny on wheels on the boulder-ridden road.
Wide-eyed, I gulped and looked at my friends who had similar
expressions. Gasping we all hit our heads to the top of the car
before we came to a standstill. At an altitude of over 12,000 feet I
had just experienced my first real fear of death, as I'm quite
certain my friends did – with falling rocks on one side and nothing
on the other.
Even as I caught my breath and closed
my eyes in relief after realising we were still on solid ground I
chided the driver. “Why didn't you drive slowly? What if we skid
off the road into the valley?” I said.
“Madame, driving slowly would get us
hit, so I had to hit speed instead,” he replied.
It was, indeed, a situation of away
from the falling rocks and into the valley below.
By now, we were all shaken. But what we
saw ahead of us as we sat in the stationery car catching our breaths,
horrified us enough to decide to turn back and risk the earlier two
landslide zones we had just crossed.
About 600 meters away we could see a
stream of water gushing down the mountain with big boulders rushing
down at an even quicker pace. It looked like a stream of boulders,
instead of a stream of water.
Our mind was made up. We decided to
turn around, brave the landslides we passed (which now seemed less
dangerous than the river of boulders we saw ahead) and head back to
Kaza.
Even as we pulled up and reversed
several times on the narrow mountain road before we headed back, the
three of us looked into the valley hoping we didn't land up there.
The ride back was a mostly silent one – intermittently praying for
a safe passage through the two landslides and pondering over our good
fortune to have survived them.
We reached Kaza 3 hours later, after
having realised how lucky we were to still be alive and also
savouring that piping hot tea in the pouring rain at Leo on our way
back. Life felt good. We were back in Kaza – a town which was
relatively safer than those being flashed on national television –
far from the torrential floods of ravaged Uttarakhand. That night we
slept like babies.
Mother Nature had another surprise in
store for us the next morning – this time a pleasant one. The
treacherous mountains surrounding Kaza had disappeared. She had
worked all night to draw thick curtains of snow across them, as if
they didn't exist. As if she was gently erasing our memory of the
landslides the previous day with every new drape of white fluff.
That Sunday was exceptional for more
than just the unseasonal snow that heralded a beautiful June day. It
was special because we came to realise that the three of us had
indeed gotten a second life. As the day tottered on we were told that
the road to Shimla – the same one we had taken the previous day to
reach Sangla Valley – had been washed away. They were swallowed by
Mother Nature with loud burps nonetheless – roads, bridges and
anything that dared to confront her fury.
Five days on, we were finally on our
way out of Kaza via the Kunzum and Rothang passes to Manali and then
onwards to Delhi. But, those five days were not without our share of
rescue carrots.
We must have packed our bags to leave
at least three times in five days that week. Once being when we were
woken by our hotel manager banging our door at 7 am informing us that
rescue helicopters were expected and asking if we were interested in
flying out on them. “Of course we are!” we said, promptly putting
our names on the list. We jumped out of bed, dressed and packed in 10
minutes and then waited all day. Nothing and nobody arrived to fetch
us. And at the end of the day we unpacked – resigning ourselves to
stay indefinitely.
We did manage to get out of Kaza last
Friday after the officials and workers of the Border Roads
Organisation and the Indian Army helped clear glaciers that had
formed enroute to Rohtang Pass – some of which were as high as 18
feet.
As we drove up and down the treacherous
winding roads marvelling at both, Mother Nature's beauty and her
brutality, we couldn't help but ponder over her nature. Over the calm
yet daunting peace she offers.
The words of Henry Van Dyke the
American poet and Essayist resonating in my mind: “Who
can explain the secret pathos of Nature's loveliness? It is a touch
of melancholy inherited from our mother Eve. It is an unconscious
memory of the lost Paradise. It is the sense that even if we should
find another Eden, we would not be fit to enjoy it perfectly nor stay
in it forever.”
Call it what one may. The bane of
negligent and inconsiderate development, the curse of the Gods or
apathy towards our environment. Our land – the likes of Uttarakhand
and Himachal Pradesh – will become a Paradise lost if we continue
towards it our attitude of reckless abandon.
As lovely as Mother Nature may be, we
must remember, she can be deadly.
P.S. Yes, This incident has finally prompted me to revive my blog (Yay!) Thank you all for being patient with my absence and still being loyal :) Keep reading and I hope I can keep writing here as frequently as I'd like to. If I don't -- egg me on :)
Quite unnerving is this account of yours Arlene. At the end its like destiny that helped you survive. I have had the same near death experience many years back on the same route. Again due to landslide and rising river after torrential rains... will never forget that day of my life. The images are still very clear in front of my eyes.
ReplyDeleteAnd this wasn't half as horrific as what tens of thousands have experienced in Uttarakhand. I can't even begin to fathom what they went through.
ReplyDeleteWow. Reading itself gives me chills. Cant even begin to imagine what you guys went through. Glad to know you are safe.
ReplyDeleteOMG!!!! I am so glad you are safe!!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you Jina, Anjali :)
ReplyDeleteIt was chance that I ended up reading this post, today. I must have last visited this page 4 years ago ...maybe. I'm glad you are fine, and I'm glad you are fine enough to recover from that incident and blog about it.
ReplyDeletePlease keep on blogging. you are good. - Yashodhara.
Keep blogging! I am an Indian raised in Hong Kong so I can relate. I now live in Singapore and my Indian kids re quite good at Mandarin. It confuses people. ..
ReplyDelete